Kiteboarding Crowd Control
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: June/July 2005 issue of Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
When you head to your favorite riding spot this summer, you are guaranteed to find a handful of new kiteboarders waiting to hit the water. Riding in crowds is never recommended, especially for beginners, but it is sometimes unavoidable. Follow these safety tips to have fun, and more importantly stay safe, while learning to deal with other kiters on the water.
Rigging and Launching
Find an open space to pump your kite and lay out your lines. Be sure not to cross over or under someone else’s lines, and preplan your process for launching. If you are not going to launch the kite right away, keep the lines connected to the kite but wrap them around the bar. Have a fellow rider help launch your kite; no need to self-launch in a crowd. Remember, to ensure a clear drop zone launch toward the water and keep the kite low.
Staying Upwind
From the beach it may look like chaos on the water with kites and boards flying all over the place, but on the water there emerges some sense of organization. Beginners and less experienced riders should ride downwind of the more experienced riders. When cutting upwind toward each other, the more advanced rider keeps his kite high and stays upwind, while the less experienced rider keeps his kite low and bears off slightly to stay downwind. Once you are out for a while, you will become used to the riders in your area and begin to feel comfortable riding around them.
Overtaking a Rider
The key to overtaking someone on the water is common sense. Keep in mind there is a massive blind spot above and behind a rider, over the trailing shoulder. This means that he may not be able to see your kite overhead if he decides to jump, unintentionally sending his kite directly into yours. Therefore, when overtaking a rider ensure you are far enough upwind, with your kite high. Better yet, just stop and turn around to make another tack.
Jumping
Jumping is cool; crashing your kite into someone is not. If you want to jump, make sure there is a clear downwind space with no one coming in close behind you or tacking directly in front of you. Practice new moves only in an area where you have enough room for error, not in a crowd.
Tangled Kites
In case two kites do tangle, the main point to remember is not to panic. If you freak out and instantly let go of your kite, things will get out of control quickly. Instead, unhook first, keep flying your kite and communicate with the other rider. Most likely you will each have to slowly land your kite in the water and work the mess out.
Landing
Try to gain eye contact with someone taking a break on the beach, then use the universal landing signal of patting the top of your head with an open palm. Once you land your kite, even for a half-hour break, wrap the lines and secure the kite to the ground.
Building the Ultimate Kiteboarding Quiver
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: Aug/Sept 2005 issue of Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Kiteboarding has grown at such a rapid pace the amount of new gear being developed and introduced into the market is endless, almost seems like every week a new “breakthrough” is released. If you’re new to the sport how are you supposed to decide what kites, boards, and bars are going to work best for you? Here we will try to give you some insight on selecting the ultimate quiver, regardless of the brand.
There are three distinct dimensions to every quiver: kites, boards and bars. Adjusting each of these aspects can greatly expand your wind range and riding time. Lets take a look into each individually.
KITES: This is the most obvious necessity in any quiver. At this point in the sport the ultimate quiver will require you to have three kites; a small hi-wind kite (20+knots), a medium sized moderate wind kite (15-20knots), and large light wind kite (8-15knots). For the average sized person (175lbs) the ultimate quiver of kites would be something similar to an 8M, 12M and 17M kites. This would cover nearly all wind ranges you come across.
BOARDS: An easy way to expand any quiver other than buying new kites is to get another board. You can increase the range of your kites dramatically by having at least two boards. We suggest having a performance board (100-140cm) and a light wind board (140-170cm). With the smaller board you will be able to hold down more kite, allowing you to ride in high winds. The larger board will work well for you in lighter conditions with the added surface area allowing you to plan out faster. Some manufacturers have developed short, wide boards (130cm by 45cm) that keep you planning in light wind while maintaining the advantages of a smaller deck.
BARS: The main element in your bar that will expand the range of your kites is your line length. We suggest having two bars always set-up and ready to go. One will be your light wind bar and the other your hi-wind bar. Your light wind bar should be longer, 45-60cm with 27-30M lines. The added bar length will allow your large kite to turn faster while the longer lines will expand your wind window allowing you a larger power stroke. Your high wind bar should be 37-45cm with 20-25M lines. The shorter bar will make your kite less reactive and the shorter lines will shrink your wind window giving you less of a power stoke and making the kite easier to edge through the power zone and to the edge of the wind window.
By mixing and matching each of these elements together you should have what you need to cover nearly all wind ranges and conditions. Also examine individual manufacturers special features such as relaunch options, safety releases, and inflation systems to match your personal preference. This will allow you to optimize your time on the water for every session!
Here are also some suggestions we have on building your quiver for specific riding styles:
Rider Style: Wake
Wake style riding requires power; you need kites that will give low-end grunt even in moderate winds. Typically you always want to be on your wake style board, sometimes this means using a huge kite.
Rider Style: Surf
No reason to take a monster into the waves, 8-14M kites should be fine for you in nearly all winds. Your larger board will keep you planning in the lulls and the smaller fast kite will allow you to generate power. A smaller directional 145-155 and a 5-6ft surfboard will keep you out in almost all winds.
Rider Style: Big Air
Going huge means you need to be lit up on high aspect, smaller 8-12M kites. Have a small light board and mutant style board with large fins to keep the board speed up and the edging ability hard!
Kiteboarding Lesson- Beating Oversheeting
Get your kite dialed in by balancing the lines.
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: Aug/Sept 2005 issue of Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
How often have you cursed your kite for flying backward, letting you sink during lulls, or not giving you more power when you pull the bar in? If you have ever encountered these symptoms of oversheeting, then it’s time to get your kite dialed in to maximize performance. Many times, your kite’s being out of tune may not be your fault; rather, your bar has adjustment capabilities that exceed your kite’s adjustment range. Save your curse words for days with no wind and follow these steps to make oversheeting a memory.
Step 1 – Balance the front and rear line lengths.
With the center adjustment strap fully powered and the chicken loop also fully powered (bar pulled in), lay out all four lines and attach them to a solid post. Pull the bar back to check for the difference in front and back line lengths. Most kites come from the factory with too-long front lines or too-short back lines, making the kite fly too powered up, or also referred to as oversheeted. To begin, you want the lines to be equal length when the bar is in the fully powered position, so make the necessary adjustments.
Step 2 – Find the sweet spot.
Launch the kite, letting the power strap all the way out, and fly it unhooked. In the fully powered setting, the wingtips should be parallel, with even line tension on all four lines. If the wing tips pinch inward and the kite flies backward, you have too much back-line tension. If the kite turns slowly and the back lines are slack, you need more back-line tension. Land the kite and make the appropriate changes by lengthening or shortening the front or back lines an inch at a time. This may take a few attempts. Even line tension between the front and back lines results in a tight, quick-turning kite.
Step 3 – Ride relaxed.
Now that the kite is tuned, focus on proper kite and board control while riding. Don’t rely on bar pressure for balance – pulling back on the bar powers the kite too much. Lean back against the kite and let the harness do the work, keeping your arms out and relaxed, and only pulling the bar toward your body when you need more power. Let your gear work for you, not vice versa.
Additional Notes:
Symptom: Kite pulls to the left or right.
Solution: Test line lengths. Most likely one of the back lines has stretched and is and inch or so longer than the other.
Symptom: Kite tends to fall backward in the wind window.
Solution: The kite is oversheeted, causing the back of the kite to pinch together. Depower the kite by lengthening the back lines or shortening the front lines.
Symptom: Kite will not steer.
Solution: The kite is underpowered. The back lines need tension for the kite to steer properly. Either lengthen the front lines or shorten the back lines.
Kiteboarding Camp- Powered Moves to Blind
Feeling comfortable in an uncomfortable situation
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: Aug/Sept 2005 issue of Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Attempting to land blind for your first time will make you feel like a total kook. The blind rotation is very unnatural, requires full commitment, and often leads to dropping your kite as often as a beginner. Under-rotating, catching your heel edge, and smacking the back of your dome piece on the water are just part of paying the dues. However, once you master landing blind you will be hooked forever. Remember to stay focused on your hand placement and on correctly passing the bar. Attempt your blind landings in this particular order for quick progression.
Toeside 360
Step 1: Keep your kite at 45 degrees, place your lead hand on the center of the bar, unhook and hop to toeside.
Step 2: Once you hop to toeside, quickly edge against the kite to load your lines.
Step 3: Pop and throw your new lead shoulder back.
Step 4: Once you begin your rotation, release your trailing hand commit all the way to the blind landing. Tuck your lead hand down and into the small of your back.
Step 5: Quickly pass the bar, hop back to your heel edge and ride away.
Raley to Blind
Step 1: Keep your kite at 45 degrees, place your lead hand on the center of the bar, load and pop.
Step 2: Throw your legs behind your head into a raley.
Step 3: Release your trailing hand from the bar and commit to the blind rotation. This will take a few attempts until the rotation begins to feel natural.
Step 4: Prepare to land. Do not lean too far back and catch your edge, keep your weight more forward.
Step 5: Land and quickly pass the bar, hop back to your heel edge and ride away.
Back to Blind
Step 1: Keep your kite at 45 degrees, place your lead hand on the center of the bar, load and pop.
Step 2: Exit the water as you would for a simple unhooked backroll.
Step 3: At the peak of your jump, stop your backroll rotation by letting go of the bar with your trailing hand and forcing your body to stall by pulling in with your lead hand.
Step 4: Prepare to land by making sure your rotate all the way back around.
Step 5: Land, pass the bar and ride away.
Kiteboarding Camp- Switch Tricks
Three moves to practice on your switch side.
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: Oct/Nov 2005 issue of Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
So your starting to stick some tricks and think you’re pretty hot on the water. Sending it and throwing down your first few wake style tricks is a great accomplishment, but real respect (the jaw dropping kind) comes from mastering all tricks on your switch foot also. If you’re that kiteboarder who learns a trick regular foot and never tries it switch, you’re losing out on a on a huge aspect of the sport. Learning how to send it and get pop on your switch foot not only gives you confidence landing on and jumping from your toe edge, it also doubles your bag of tricks, instantly. Your goal should be to dial in all tricks going both switch and regular, making you a more confident and solid overall rider. Check out a few of these easy to try switch tricks during your next session and you might be surprised at how challenging, and addictive switch can be!
Raley to Toeside (AKA Air Krypt):
This is one of the easiest, but also most fun, switch tricks to attempt. Landing toeside from a switch raley feels very natural and can easily be done as a transition move also.
1. Load and pop as you would for a normal raley.
2. Throw your feet behind your head and begin to rotate your upper body frontside.
3. Continue to rotate frontside until you complete the 180 to toeside.
4. Spot your landing, land toeside and ride away.
Backroll to Toeside (AKA Roll to Revert):
Basically an over-rotated backroll. It feels very natural on your switch side since you land toeside.
1. Load and pop as you would for a normal backroll
2. Turn your head in the direction of your rotation to help lead your body around.
3. As you spot your landing, continue your rotation. Try releasing your lead hand to help over-rotate your body the extra 180 to toeside.
4. Bend your knees to absorb the impact, land toeside and ride away.
S-Bend to Toeside (AKA Vulcan):
This switch trick is somewhat more difficult due to the awkward forward rotation and the stall (under-rotation) to land toeside. A Vulcan is basically a big, slow rotating backside 180.
1. Load and pop (make sure to load your back foot to get the proper forward pop).
2. Commit to the forward spin, it will feel very unnatural at first.
3. As you spin forward, look over your shoulder to spot your landing and stall your rotation by releasing your lead hand.
4. Spot your landing, land toeside and ride away.
Kiteboarding Camp- Self Landing
Four methods for self-landing your kite.
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: Oct/Nov 2005 issue of Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Once you hit the water sometimes it is hard to get off; you get so stoked that you don’t realize all your riding buddies and even your girlfriend/boyfriend left without you. At this point you’re forced to come in due to the wind dying or the sun setting. It is important for you to understand the proper way to land yourself safely when there are no experienced kiters there to assist you. Here we walk you through some of the safest ways to get yourself off of the water when you’re stuck alone.
Land and Pull
Use It When: The winds are light to prevent your lines from becoming tangled.
Method:
1. While in the water, unhook and bring your kite 10 feet over land.
2. Aggressively steer your kite and crash it leading edge down onto land.
3. Carefully pull your upwind, outside line in to position kite leading edge into the wind. This is the critical part.
4. Grab your bar and walk to your kite.
5. Secure your kite and wrap your lines.
And Remember: Try and land your kite in a wind shadow, and make sure the ground will not damage your kite from the impact. Also be very careful when pulling on your kite line; never wrap your line around your hand or arm.
Land and Release
Use It When: You’re in a spot with no beach or landing zone, and in higher winds.
Method:
1. Standing on or near shore, unhook and bring your kite 10 feet over the water.
2. Crash your kite leading edge down into the water.
3. Let go of your bar to activate your re-ride safety system. Prepare for your kite to roll across the wind window.
4. Pull your leashed line in until you reach your kite.
5. Secure your kite and bar, and wrap your lines.
And Remember: Ensure a clear drop zone as your kite may roll across the wind window as you pull it in.
Overhead Release
Use It When: You’re in shallow water or in an emergency situation.
Method:
1. While in the water, unhook and bring your kite to the neutral position.
2. Let go of your bar to activate the re-ride safety system.
3. When the kite crashes in the water, pull in on your leashed line until you reach your kite.
4. Secure the kite and bar, and wrap your lines.
And Remember: Ensure a clear drop zone and prepare for you kite to “flag” in the wind.
5th Line Release
Use It When: You’re equipped with a fifth line. This release method can be used as a safe way to land your kite.
Method:
1. While in the water, unhook and bring your kite to the neutral position.
2. Let go of your bar to activate your fifth line safety system.
3. When your kite crashes, pull in your fifth line until you reach your kite.
4. Secure your kite and bar, and wrap your lines.
And Remember: Don’t worry about line tangles with a fifth line and on occasion expect your kite to land perfectly aligned leading edge into the wind.
Roadmap to Kiteboarding
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: 2005 Intro to Kiteboarding Magazine insert, www.kiteboardingmag.com
If you take the right approach, kiteboarding is simple and safe. But if you listen to bad advice and take the wrong route, you’ll face nothing but frustration. Follow these steps to quickly get from point A to point Kiteboarder.
STEP 1: EDUCATE YOURSELF
First take some time to research the sport, checking out your local kiteboarding shop or scene. Meet the local crew and get some background info about your particular area. This will give you a chance to find out a little bit more about the sport, what you can do with it and the people involved.
STEP 2: GO TO CAMP
Would you fly a plane without prior instruction? Of course not – so don’t buy gear until you take a lesson. Kiteboarding is a technical sport, so having a professional instructor guide you through the initial stages saves you both time and money. It’s the single best investment you can make getting into the sport.
STEP 3: GET PROPER GEAR
KITES: For 95 percent of the global kiteboarding population, a 10-12 meter low- to moderate-aspect kite is the perfect beginner kite. Going too large for your first kite will not only intimidate you, it will also be hard to work with and manage as a beginner.
BOARDS: Initially, stick with this combo: larger board and smaller kite. You will have a much better experience using a large board with plenty of surface area to get you up and planing with controllable power.
HARNESS: Personal preference. Waist harnesses give more support, while seat harnesses offer more range of motion.
STEP 4: CONTINUE EDUCATION = PROGRESSION
Even after you get dialed in, continue your progression by taking part in an advanced kiteboarding camp. Many kiteboarding schools offer camps all around the world, so you can always combine business and pleasure. Choose a spot that gets consistent wind where you will be able to ride for a solid week with professional coaches by your side.
Kiteboarding Magazine Editors Letter: Intro to Kiteboarding
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: 2005 Intro to Kiteboarding Magazine insert, www.kiteboardingmag.com
What is kiteboarding? Using only the power of Mother Nature, launch 30-foot jumps, pull your favorite wakeboard moves, carve virgin tracks through powder or just ride some waves to the sunset – that’s what it is. It isn’t as much a sport as it is a passion. Kiteboarding can be done in nearly any location in the world. All you really need is wind, and your gear can easily pack down to the size of a golfing bag. What else could you ask for? And once you’re involved with kiteboarding, get ready to meet some of the most incredible people, travel to beautiful locations and enjoy the healthiest of lifestyles. Numerous students have passed through our school and have fallen head over heels in love with the sport and the lifestyle, changing their lives for the better. Now is your chance. With the huge advancements in kite, board, and bar technology, the learning curve has been dramatically improved. What once took months now takes hours. Not to mention the hundreds of schools and shops popping up all over the world, working to offer great gear prices and unreal instructional opportunities, from lessons to camps.
Kiteboarding Camp- Wrap your Bar
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Always use a figure eight motion when wrapping your lines on your control bar. This puts half a twist in and half a twist out with each wrap and prevents the lines from getting individual twists in the lines. To keep the ends from falling off the bar, form a loop with the last section of lines, twist it around one full spin and then drop it over the end of the control bar. Two of these will prevent the ends of the lines from tangling.
Kiteboarding Camp- Set-up a Fifth Line
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
First make sure your kite has either has a pump leash or a fifth line attachment point at the center of the leading edge. Pump up your kite and set it leading edge down on the ground. Set up your lines from the back of the kite so you can attach them. Once attached, your kite and lines should look exactly how they do when your kite crashes leading edge down in front of you.
Cut out about a 3-foot piece of spectra leader line. Where you place the leader line on your bar may differ depending on your bar setup. If applicable, run the leader line through the center chicken loophole on your bar. If not possible, just tie off the leader line on the center of your bar. Tie a knot at the end of the leader line once it is secure on the bar.
Take a kite line approximately the length of your lines and larks head one end to the knot on the end of the leader line and run it all the way to your pump leash or 5th line attachment on your kite. Be sure to have a bit of slack in the line, but keep it minimal. To set your bar up for multiple sized kites you will need to run a leader line from your pump leash or fifth line attachment that has multiple knots at different lengths for each size kite.
Be sure to test your new 5th line in light wind conditions to ensure proper hook up and line tension.
Kiteboarding Camp- Roll your Kite Alone
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
If you want to make your kite as small as possible for your next kiteboarding trip, follow this process. Remove the wingtip battens from their pockets. Take extra time to squeeze ALL remaining air out of each bladder individually. Lay the kite out flat and fold the trailing edge up on top of the rest of the canopy so that fold is approximately in line with the end of the last strut. Starting at one wingtip, begin making small folds, approximately 10-12”, folding like a towel to the center strut. Repeat this starting at the other wingtip. Now fold these sections together and begin folding from the trailing edge to the leading edge. Your folded kite should now be the size of a large folded beach towel. You can easily put two kites in a normal kite backpack using this method.
Kiteboarding Camp- Ride Upwind
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
The most important aspect of getting upwind is to have a physical point of reference. Have a goal of where you would like to go upwind, and edge as hard as possible to get there. Keep in mind that if you always look straight downwind at the kite, that’s where you will go, downwind. While edging, your leading leg should be straight and your back leg bent. Weight should be distributed over your back leg. You should never be going fast; edge harder if your speed increases and relieve your edge if you need more speed to keep planing. Going upwind is all about edging, finding the balance of speed and power, and looking in the direction that you want to go.
Kiteboarding Camp- Ride Blind
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
When first trying to ride blind, begin by riding with your dominant foot forward. You will also want to be hooked into your harness line or chicken loop. To get into the blind position you will need to pop a small backside 180 (trailing foot rotates backward). As you pop your 180, transfer all your weight from your old leading foot to your new trailing foot in order to edge. The key is to get comfortable transferring your weight this way. Be sure to keep your kite powered and prepared for having to steer your kite without looking at it. This can be tricky at first, but when you get it you will have it forever.
Kiteboarding Camp- Replace Leading Edge Bladder
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Leaky bladders are no fun, but sooner or later you will need to perform some bladder repair. Lay the kite flat to access the damaged bladder. You will need to thread a line through the bladder housing as you remove the bladder. This will aid you in reinserting it.
If it is a leading-edge bladder, open the bladder housing at the wingtip and attach a line to one end of the bladder. Now, pull that side of the bladder out through the access pocket near the middle of the leading edge, which will pull the line through the housing at the same time. Repeat on the other side with a new line.
If it is a strut bladder, attach the line to the bladder nipple and close the valve around the line so it doesn’t slip out. Now push the bladder nipple through the hole and inside the bladder housing. Gently pull the bladder out the end of the housing. That will pull the line through the housing.
Fill the bladder with air and submerge it under clear water to look for escaping air bubbles. Wipe the bladder dry and circle the holes with a black felt-tip marker. Cut a round patch from the bladder repair kit that comes with the kite to eliminate the tendency for the corners to lift. Use a template such as a quarter to get a nice round circle.
Deflate the bladder and apply the glue and patch carefully to avoid wrinkles. Give it several minutes to dry, then check for additional leaks and allow the bladder to dry before reinserting it into the kite.
Reinsert the bladder by attaching the line to the end of the bladder (LE repair) or to the nipple (strut repair) and gently pulling the bladder through the housing. It is very important to have the bladder the correct side up, and there should be NO twisting nor excessive wrinkling.
If you are having problems, try these tips: Make sure the bladder is completely dry. Coat the bladder with talcum powder to help it slide in easier. Mark the seams of the bladder with a black felt-tip marker so you can see this line as you insert the bladder, and line up the inside seam with the outside seam on the housing.
Kiteboarding Camp- Pump your Kite in a Boat
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
If you will be launching from deep water, completely rig your kite first on land, and wrap the bar with the lines attached. With the struts already fully inflated, keep the kite rolled up and lay it on the water next to the boat on the leeward side. If the boat sits low in the water, you can just pump while standing on the floor of the boat. If the boat sits high off the water with high rails, you may need to stand on a bench near the edge of the boat. Attach the pump leash to the kite to keep the kite from flying away. Pump up the leading edge and flip the kite as you would on a beach. Tie a 5-foot line from the boat and securely attach it to either the pump leash loop on the center of the kite or a pigtail on the wingtip. Swim out away from the boat while unwinding the lines, and either perform a basic water relaunch to get the kite in the air or have an assistant launch it from the boat.
Kiteboarding Camp- Pump your Kite
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Unroll the kite perpendicular to the direction of the wind, with the leading edge facing into the wind. Place piles of sand between the struts on the canopy of the kite near the leading edge. Pump each of the struts first, starting at one wingtip and working all the way to the other. Securely attach the pump leash to the center of the kite and pump the leading edge as firm as possible. The only time you need to be concerned about too much air in the leading edge is if the kite will be sitting on hot sand for a period of time (air expands as it heats up). Flip the kite over and pile sand on top to hold it down to the ground.
Kiteboarding Camp- Protect your Eyes
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Exposure to the sun’s UV rays will take their toll on anyone’s eyes. Protect yourself by shielding your eyes with a quality pair of sunglasses or hat with a brim that will knock the light off your eyes. There are many good watersport sunglasses on the market today that will fit snugly, polarized to reduce glare, and won’t spot up or fog over on you.
Kiteboarding Camp- Practice Off the Water
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
First, set up a hanging bar, preferably over a trampoline if you have one. Take one of your old bars and tie the outside leader lines together to create a triangle. Run a line from the top of the leaders to a high tree limb or secure structure. Set you bar up so that it hangs at a height where you have to reach above your head to grab it. Once bar is set and secure, practice all the aerial handle passes, and throw a harness line on and hook in to practice some of those board grabs that you cant quite get on the water. Typically if you can get it on the hanging bar, you can get it on the water!
Kiteboarding Camp- Maintain your Pump
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
With a little routine maintenance you can keep your pump pumping strong. Wipe the pump down after each session to remove the sand and salt water. These are the corrosive elements that will wreak havoc on the pump shaft and seals. Take the pump apart and relubricate the piston with some bearing grease around the gasket and some light spray lubricant on the shaft. Remember to pump evenly to avoid breaking off the handle or snapping the shaft at the base.
Kiteboarding Camp- Launch and Land Each Other
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Rig the kites near each other. Once both kites are fully hooked up and ready to launch, have the less-experienced kiter launch the more-experienced kiter first. Once the first kiter is safely launched, the second kiter should quickly get to the kite bar, hook up the leash, walk to the edge of the wind window and prepare for launch. The kiter with the kite in the air should have the kite parked at an angle toward the water away from the kite being launched. Grab the center of the leading edge and pick it up into launch position using one hand. Be sure to keep your other hand lightly on your bar to correct any unintentional steering due to wind changes. Lift your partner’s kite up on edge, as you normally would, ensure the lines are properly attached, and make sure your partner is ready with thumbs up. Once the launch is successful, get to the water as quickly as possible. Landing the kites is done in a very similar way. The more-experienced kiter will land the less-experienced kiter first. With one kiter at the edge of the wind window, the second will slowly steer the kite down until the the first kiter can safely grab the leading edge and stabilize the kite. The rider with the landed kite can then secure the first kite on the ground and land the second kite as normal.
Kiteboarding Camp- Keep your Feet in the Straps
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Make sure your straps are adjusted properly. You want the straps to be snug on the sides of your feet as well as on the tops. To do this you need to make the straps fit narrower than you would think. Use heel bungees to keep your feet firmly pushed into the straps. Liquid Force, NSI, and Best now make specifically designed heel loops you can pick up for a good price, or you can get some old inner tubes from your local bike shop. Cut the tubes about 10 inches long, fold the ends over 1 inch, and wrap hockey tape around the ends. Then punch a hole in the center of the tape, all the way through the tube, and bolt the bungees down under your foot straps using the normal binding mounting hardware. Ensure that your foot beds are properly bonded to your board. In addition to the sticky-back adhesive that comes on the pad, use a 3M spray adhesive or similar to really get the pads to stay down.
Kiteboarding Camp- Keep your Beach Safe
Author: Matt and Keegan Myers, with PASA Examiner Chris Moore
Published: Kiteboarding Magazine, www.kiteboardingmag.com
Number one: use common sense and respect others. Stay clear of people using the beach and maintain a safe distance at all times. If this is a location with other non-kiters, establish a clear kiteboarding zone. Designate a set-up area, a launch area, and a landing zone. If possible mark the areas so it is apparent to everyone.
Some common guidelines should include: Maintain a 200ft buffer zone off the beach; avoid riding and pulling tricks anywhere close to the beach. Make sure that right of way rules are clear and understood. Make it mandatory that everyone uses a kite safety leash and wrap your lines on beached kites to avoid “runaway kites”.
Another great idea is to organize a training day for the local lifeguards and/or other local authorities. Teach them how to rescue a kiteboarder, how to disarm a kite, and make them feel confident and comfortable with being able to handle kiteboarding on their beach. This can go a long way disarming a bad incident before it happens.
Intro Guide to Kiteboarding
BRONEAH INTRO TO KITEBOARDING:
So you’re thinking about getting into the best water sport on the face of the planet! That is a very good decision, but there are a few things that could make or break your experience in the sport of kiteboarding. Hopefully some of these suggestions will make your encounter the best it can be. Kiteboarding is a simple sport when you take the right approach getting into it. Alternatively, kiteboarding can be a very difficult sport if you try to rush things and avoid advice from others. Here we will run you through the best possible approach to take in getting into the sport in a step by step process.
STEP 1: EDUCATE YOURSELF
Your first step is to take some time and research the sport. Make some calls, or talk to people who already kiteboard. This way you can get a better idea of exactly what the sport is. It would be a good idea to find out if you have a local kiteboarding shop or community that does the sport in your area. If so do what you can to meet those people and get some background on the sport for your particular area. We would also suggest that you pick up a video or Kiteboarding Magazine, this will give you a chance to see a little bit more about the sport, what you can do with it, and the people involved.
STEP 2: GET EDUCATED
After giving yourself a little background on kiteboarding your next step is to take a lesson. Don’t even think about getting gear until you take a lesson. By purchasing equipment before you take a lesson you are taking a huge risk; how do you know that is the right gear for you? Is it the proper size board, kite, bar, lines, etc? Or is the kite even a good kite? These are all things you do not know at this point, so why get gear? Kiteboarding is a fairly technical sport so having a professionally certified instructor guide your through the proper setup will save you both time and money. Putting money into professional instruction is the single best thing you can do getting into kiteboarding. Not taking a lesson is like trying to fly a plane with no prior instruction, CRAZY!
STEP 3: GET PROPER GEAR
KITES: For 95% of the kiteboarding world in North America and for the entire globe for that matter you will never want to get a kite over 10-12 meters for your first kite. Do not let others tell you differently. Getting too large of a kite for your first kite will not only intimidate you but will be hard to work with and manage as a beginner. A typical 10-12 meter kite or smaller is still a very large kite and will work for you in both light and heavier winds. You would much rather be out with too small of a kite than too large of a kite when you are beginning the sport. As for the kites, you will definitely want to get into what is called a low to moderate aspect kite for your first kite, do not get a high aspect kite. Low to moderate aspect kites are much more stable and will make your learning phase that much simpler. As far as bar set-up goes, if you’re purchasing a brand new kite just use what the manufacture recommends. If you are purchasing used gear, make sure that your certified instructor inspects the kite and bar thoroughly before use.
BOARDS: When getting into the sport it is always better to follow the idea of using a larger board and smaller kite. You will have a much better experience if you’re using a large board with plenty of surface area to get you up and planing with controllable power. This will force you to have better kite control, which in the long run will make you a better kiteboarder. For the average sized person of 170-200 lbs we would suggest getting into a board that is about 160cm long. If you’re dramatically larger or smaller than that then go with a larger or smaller board depending on your size. Once again the certified instructor that teaches you will be able to give you a good idea of what will work best for you. You will never grow out of a large board. Once you progress and are looking to get into something smaller you can always keep your larger board and use it for those light wind days, and trust me you will have them! It is also key to make sure you are using foot straps during your learning stages. Wearing wakeboard bindings makes things much more complicated.
HARNESS: This is a personal preference decision. You can choose from either a waist or seat harness. Typically women like to wear seat harnesses along with people that have experienced back pain. The most common harnesses are waist harnesses that allow a bit more freedom and movement on the body. Once again this is personal preference and you will soon learn what works best for you.
STEP 4: CONTINUE EDUCATIONAL PROGRESSION
Even after you become a fairly competent kiteboarder it is a great idea to continue your progression by taking part in an advanced kiteboarding camp. Many kiteboarding schools offer camps all around the nation and globe in some incredible places. Choose a spot that gets consistent wind where you will be able to spend a solid week riding every day with professional certified coaches by your side! This is the ultimate way to progress your kiteboarding skills fast and efficiently. At this point you will also be able to discuss expanding your kite and board quiver to the next level.
Intro Guide to Kite-Snowboarding
BRONEAH INTRO TO KITE SNOWBOARDING:
Make it happen this winter!! Get outside and learn to Kite Snowboard. It is simple, fun, and safe. Kite Snowboarding is a great family sport and an inexpensive alternative to skiing or snowboarding. Read the info below and learn all there is to know about getting started on the snow.
EQUIPMENT:
KITES: In kite snowboarding one of the largest issues is what type of kite to use a Leading Edge Inflatable (LEI) or a Foil kite. This debate can go on and on, but the fact of the matter is that both kites work great. You have pros and cons to both styles of kites, we will look a bit further into each type.
LEI: Leading Edge Inflatable kites are the kites most of us already use on the water. These kites also work great in the snow. The fact that you are using the same exact kite in the snow and in the water allows you to get very comfortable with the performance of your kites. You can use your LEI for a full season in the snow and expect the same performance and response when you make the transition back to the water. This is a huge advantage and will defiantly make you more comfortable with your kites and how they fly.
FOIL: Foil kites are another great option for the snow. One of the greatest things about the foil is that you do not need to pump it up! The kites are also very durable and can take some hard crashes on the snow. Most foils are very easy to de power and re launch, which makes them fast and easy to use. The main issue with foils is that they are typically not the kites you use in the water. This means you have to adjust your riding style to the kite. If you already own LEI kites your really do not need to purchase another set of foils for the snow, but if you plan on getting into the sport for the winter only Foils can be a really good, cheap option for you.
PICKING THE PROPER SIZE: In the winter time the wind can be much different than in the summer, leaving you guessing on which size kite to rig. Winter time wind tends to be best described as “Dense”, the wind is very full. Meaning with a light steady breeze you will be powered up. Due to this “Dense” wind you will typically be using a smaller kite in the winter than you would in the same wind in the summer. Also there is very little resistance between you and the snow allowing you to ride with much less power. When first headed out to a new kite snowboarding spot rig small and test the conditions.
BOARDS: Many people that get into kite snowboarding already have experience snowboarding and know what type of board they prefer on the hill. For kite snowboarding conditions your preference may change depending on the conditions you will be riding in. For most conditions you will want to pick a board that is long, wide, and stiff. A board that is long enough for your size (i.e. 160cm for a 5’10″ person) with enough base to get you through the rough stuff, remember with kite snowboarding you are not riding on nice groomed conditions like on the slopes. A board that is wide will allow you to edge hard and not have to worry about heel drag. If your board is to skinny and your heels or toes are hanging off either end you will find yourself catching them in the snow. A stiff board allows you to edge hard and hold your edge even through the harder areas. On a flexible board you will find your legs getting worn out very fast working hard to hold your edge.
BINDINGS: Many snowboarders know what type of bindings they like to ride, but for kite snowboarding things can be different. Remember you now have to control your kite and put your board on at the same time. With standard ratchet bindings this can be a difficult task when it’s blowing 20 and snowing hard. Even though they may not be your favorite on the hill “Click in” bindings might save you tons of time and energy kite snowboarding. Once you launch your kite all you need to do is step in and you’re cruising. “Step in” bindings also work great for when you need to make those fast exits off of your board. If you’re using a LEI kite with no re launching attachments then you will find yourself having to get out of your board to re launch the kite, making “Step Ins” even more attractive.
CLOTHING: One of the most important things to remember for kite snowboarding is that you will freeze your ass off getting rigged, but be sweating bullets five minutes into your session. This leaves you with a difficult balance between what is too much or to little. You may want to throw on an extra jacket and warm mittens while you’re getting rigged and ditch them before you head out for your session. There are a few very important aspects of the clothing you chose to kite snowboarding in.
PANTS: First off is your pants. It is worth the extra investment to get into a nice pair of bibs. These are snow pants that have a connected bib on them that straps up around your shoulders. You will end up being dragged face first in the snow and there is nothing worse then standing up with your crotch full of hard packed snow. Get a bib, you will have a much better session.
GLOVES: Secondly is to find the right gloves. Having your hands be warm and toasty in huge pair of mittens is nice, but does not work great on the performance end of things. You pretty much want to choose a pair of gloves that will keep you just warm enough with minimal size. Try to pick a pair of gloves that are very low profile yet keep you hands dry. This can take some testing, but once you find the right pair you will be happy.
PROTECTIVE GEAR: Most important thing with kite snowboarding clothing is what is under the clothes. Typically is it better to have more than less. Rummage through your garage and find some old skateboarding pads and motocross knee braces and throw them on. There is nothing worse then starting off your season with a huge elbow or knee bruise that will continue to bother you the rest of the season. The more padding you can find the better. And most importantly never go kite snowboarding without a helmet. Maybe you don’t wear a helmet in the water but the snow is much harder. Just wear a helmet, it will keep your lid warm also!
TECHNIQUE:
So now that you have the gear to head out lets work on some technique. For any kiteboarder who is just progressing in the sport and has had their first few rides in on the water will be blown away by how easy kite snowboarding is. Even for advanced riders working on touching up surface handle pass tricks, hitting sliders, kickers, and even kite loops will love the snow. Kite snowboarding allows you to fully focus on your body position and technique without having to worry about the next wave breaking or losing power and sinking down into the water.
STAYING UPWIND: If you’re still doing the downwind walk of shame in the water and have been busting your ass working to learn how to edge hard enough to finally stay upwind all your hard work will be put together on the snow. Many riders will really make the next step in their riding ability by spending a season on the snow. Riding upwind and focusing on your edging technique is so much easier when you’re already on the surface. In kite snowboarding it is almost hard to go downwind!
PROGRESSION: If you’re already a proficient rider on the water and can stay upwind all day long but looking to add a few more tricks to the bag over the winter then kite snowboarding will do just that. Learn how to ride toe side and to make different transitions that you were never before able to do in the water. Or if your looking to get your first airs hold your edge and send the kite, you will be amazed at how easy it is on the snow.
GETTING TECHNICAL: One of the best aspects of the snow is the potential for practicing your surface handle passes, riding blind, and hitting sliders and kickers. Being on a hard surface allows you to learn how to move your weight around and learn to grab the correct side of the bar on your passes. Going blind in the water can be difficult for many but once again the hard surface of the snow will allow you to practice this body position and focus on how to rotate your body and still hold a strong edge.
Its time to forget about taking a short ride down the mountain, hitting one crowded slider, and getting on the chairlift. With kite snowboarding you can hit the same slider over and over all day long without ever having to stop. Same goes for the kicker that you and your buddies spent the entire morning building.
WHERE TO KITE:
Kite snowboarding opens up the amount of places to ride dramatically. Not all those smaller inland lakes become powder covered dreamlands. The farmer’s field you drive by on the way to work becomes a kite snowboarding park full of sliders, kickers, and rolling hills to launch off of. All the worries about crowded beaches and small launches are no longer present.
Kite snowboarding spots can range dramatically in terrain and location. The first thing you need to look for in any spot is if it gets clean wind. Remember that in the winter time there are no leaves on the trees allowing the wind to blow through much cleaner than in the summer, which opens up new spots. Some of the best spots might be the same spots you ride in during the summer time, as long as it freezes over and a good base of snow develops on top you can expect clean, steady wind.
Also some of the smaller inland lakes that get good wind but have no launches are now frozen over with enough room for 30 kiters. For frozen lakes the main things you want to watch for is number one thick ice. Ask the local ice fishermen how the ice is, they typically have a good understanding of the conditions. Next is a nice base of snow. You do not want to head out on a frozen lake that has glare ice spots or just a dusting of snow over solid ice. The ultimate base for a lake is 12-20 inches of ice, topped with 4-8 inches of hard crusty snow, topped with 6-12 inches of thick powder! This allows you to edge hard without scraping on the ice.
For some of those fields you pass on the way to work it’s a good idea to check them out during the summer months to see what exactly is on the land. Are there some random rocks, posts, or hard objects on the land? These types of things all get covered over by a minimum of 3 inches of snow. The nice thing about riding on frozen lakes is that you know that nothing is under the snow but ice. So be very careful about riding on land, talk with the land owner to make sure you know about what may be under the snow. Once again the more base you have the better, without much base you will be edging right into the ground.
5 TIPS FOR SNOW KITEBOARDING:
1. Dress with enough gear to be warm while rigging but not hot while riding.
2. Wear plenty of protective gear including knee and elbow pads, helmet, goggles, and even knee braces if you have them.
3. Choose a board that is long, wide, and stiff.
4. Rig a smaller kite than you typically would in the summer.
-If riding on the ice make sure that there is a thick base of ice, if riding on land make sure that the surface is free of hard objects that may be under the snow.
5. Try to use a kite that has some type of re launching feature on it.
Here are some troubleshooting thoughts to consider before heading out:
Self Launching: This can easily be done in the snow. If you have a kite that has some form of re-launching feature than just use it. If not you can rig up your own fifth line setup easily on any kite. Or if you don’t want to deal with the hassle of putting on the extra lines just fill a pillow case or small bag full or sand. Take this with you and place it on your wingtip the same as you would on the beach.
Self Rescue: Same rules apply in the winter as in the summer, that is don’t go out any further than you would want to walk back in. One of the advantages of kite snowboarding is that if you do break down you can just pack your gear up and walk in.
LEI Re-launch: One issue with LEI kites in the snow is that they can be difficult to re launch. There is such little resistance between your leading edge and the snow it makes it hard for the kite to flip on its back for a snow re-launch. This is where some of the new advancements in LEI that have an additional re launching feature are great. Systems such as the Recon and fifth line allow you to easily get the kite off of the snow without any issues.
Pumping up LEI’s: One of the worst parts about LEI kites is pumping them up in the snow. When its blowing 20 knots and the wind chill is 0, pulling your fingers out of you gloves to pinch valves can leave you frozen. Having a kite that has stopper balls and one way valves makes this process much simpler. Some of the new inflations systems that fill all the struts at once are wonderful in the snow. If you plan on getting multiple sessions in during a given week it may even be a good idea to just leave your struts inflated, or inflate them inside before getting out to the riding spot.